Knowing your importer can simplify the process of choosing a wine when you are staring at thousands of bottles like I was on Friday at the Wine House in Los Angeles. What made it easier was looking for importers that I knew. An importer that tends to select wines that mesh with your palate can be invaluable, saving you money and bringing you a lot of pleasure.

I was first introduced to Kermit Lynch’s wines at Jar Restaurant where the sommelier steered me to a bottle of 2007 Domaine Les Palliéres “Les Racines Vieilles Vignes” from Gigondas among a heavy lineup. It was a gem and he saw that I was enthralled and he began telling me all about Mr. Lynch’s portfolio as well as sharing with me a little about another great importer, Neil Rosenthal. Since that memorable meal and bottle of wine I have had Kermit Lynch engrained on my mind.

KL WineKermit Lynch, much like David Lynch, excel at what they do—whether you agree with his direction, David Lynch has made wildly cultish, creepy films—and Kermit imports a handful of very famous producers under his label stretching from Beaujolais, France to Piedmont, Italy.

A certain standout in Lynch’s remarkable portfolio was the 2009 M. Lapierre Morgon (the winemaker’s last vintage); my parents gave me a half case of it as a Christmas present. Each bottle sealed with wax, too beautiful to open. I had already secured a bottle to pair with the Christmas dinner but the rest has since been transferred to my cellar.

Kermit Lynch’s wines resonate sweetly with my palate much like Yo La Tengo’s rendition of “Here Comes My Baby” (although Cat Steven’s version ain’t bad either); they are what I look for when I search for indie French producers, especially when the retailer presents a dizzying array.

On my recent trip I purchased eight wines, of which five were from the KL portfolio and I look forward to trying them all. I know that I am in good hands with Lynch.