I tend to have Tuesday nights open, and luckily for me they coincide with Palate Food + Wine’s Tuesday Jazz series where I can taste four wines for a meager ten dollar charge and experience some more inspired cuisine for a relatively low cost while being entertained by the Wine Director—Steve Goldun—performing on the bass with an assemblage of touring musicians. How come I do not make it out every Tuesday? I will tell you the real downfall for me is travelling to Glendale, the traffic is interminable and enough to make me weigh the fun that is in store at Palate against the gridlock. This time I decided to rough it, after being prodded by friends from wine class to attend (nice to be wanted), I gently fell like a domino and made the excursion east.
I caught up with my friends Tom and Liz at Palate, arriving deep into the set that promptly began around 8 p.m, catching a drum solo as I A.C Slatered my seat and joined them near the front of the house. They informed me that they were far into the four-flight of wines and they encouraged me to order quickly because they had already done so. Scanning the menu I opted for the grilled quail and the flight of Italian wines.
Everyone’s food arrived together, despite the fact that I had ordered well behind my party; and everything was plated beautifully. No indication of a rush. Tom had ordered the octopus with farm egg and Liz, more familiar with the cuisine and their proclivity for mastering anything Cochon, had the pork belly. The quail I had ordered wore its grill marks proudly. We divided the plates of food, family style; we cut into our respective meals and maneuvered the entrées to each other’s platters while respecting the flavors and integrity of the dishes by carefully distributing the portions in cordons.
As we began to eat, my flight of wine began; I was off the ground with a white wine from Campania—failed to grab the name of bottle number 233 (which will forever have an asterisk by it in this marathon ride to 500…may have to add a bottle to ensure purity when the Hall of Wine calls)—that was crisp and tropical, at least that was my experience. I transitioned into the red wines after the only white wine of the set (almost like an aperitif, though I would give it more credit, but I was in a hurry). The second glass was a 2008 Antichi Vinai Etna Rosso (#232) that was mildly tannic, moderate oak, failing to keep my attention as I was onto my third pour in no time, rushing the process to be caught up with my friends. That may have been a mistake because that was a pedigreed producer and a wine that deserved more careful analysis. Fortunately, my profession has sharpened my spot tasting skills and the alcohol was not an issue either.
Onto the 09 Scarpetta Barbera Monferrato (#231), that seemed to pair well with the quail and was delicious on its own. The wine had moderate acidity and good weight in the mouth, not overpowering the food. The final wine in the lineup was a 2006 Camigliano Brunello di Montalcino (#230) that had a tighter, less odorous nose but I was able to pick up a few rose petals and a little cherry. The last two wines really showed well in the set and elevated the dining experience (though the foods did not need much assistance).
The entrées stole the show; my first time tasting quail and it was excellent. Rich white meat that was grilled perfectly and far surpassed the expectation of “gamey” flavors that is always the first adjective for the unfamiliar domesticated fowl. My initial quail experience was eclipsed only by the pork belly that was best in show; the sauce that bathed the crispy vegetables and most likely braised the belly of the porc was savory and vibrant. The octopus on the other hand was okay but did not hit the mark for my taste receptors and the dessert failed to capture my enthusiasm (not what I was expecting for bread pudding), but overall I wasn’t disappointed with the quality or the price.
I see two things happening in the future, making the trek back to Glendale to eat and drink at Palate Food + Wine (even listen to the quality music whether live or recorded) and to eat quail again. I am also happy to report that last Tuesday brought me four wines closer to 500 (230 left) and an asterisk excuse to have one more.
Leave a comment
Comments feed for this article